Few skincare ingredients have a reputation as strong as retinol, and few are introduced as carelessly. It is recommended in nearly every conversation about skin, from anti-ageing routines to spot-prone complexions, and people often arrive at it with high expectations and a new, fairly strong product. The result, frequently, is a week of red, dry, stinging skin and a product that goes to the back of the shelf. Most of that is avoidable. The important ideas are not complicated: understand what you are using, start slowly, protect your skin from the sun, and know when to ask someone qualified.
Retinol and retinoids: the family tree
“Retinoid” is the name for a family of compounds related to vitamin A. At one end are the prescription medicines, such as adapalene and tretinoin, which are used to treat acne and are available through a pharmacist or a prescriber. In the UK, the NHS describes retinoids such as these as medicines that reduce inflammation and oiliness and help to prevent spots.
Retinol sits in the cosmetic part of the same family. It is sold in creams and serums without a prescription, and it is generally gentler than the prescription retinoids. That is a statement about intensity, not about safety or effect: retinol can still irritate, and the strength you see on a label is only part of what determines how your skin reacts.
The distinction is worth keeping in mind when you read about “retinoids” in general. Advice written about prescription products does not always translate neatly to a cosmetic serum, and the reverse is also true.
Why starting slowly matters
The most common side effects of topical retinoids are redness, dryness and a mild burning sensation. NHS-published patient information on adapalene says these effects tend to occur in the first few weeks and usually settle as the skin gets used to the treatment, and that some people find it helps to start with applications two or three times a week, building up to every night as tolerated.
The same principle sensibly applies to cosmetic retinol. A gradual start gives your skin time to adapt, and it makes it much easier to tell what is causing a reaction. A reasonable pattern looks like this:
- Choose one product and introduce nothing else new at the same time.
- Start with a low frequency, such as two evenings a week, and use a small amount.
- Increase gradually, only when your skin feels comfortable, to every other night and then, if you want to, nightly.
- Stop and reassess if your skin becomes persistently sore, swollen or very irritated.
Patience is the other part. For acne, the NHS patient information notes that most people need at least a couple of months of regular use before they see improvement. Cosmetic changes, such as smoother texture or less visible fine lines, are also slow. A product that has been used for two weeks has not been given a fair trial, and nor, in all likelihood, has your skin.
How to apply it
Method matters as much as the product.
- Apply to clean, dry skin. The NHS patient guidance for adapalene is to clean and dry the skin thoroughly first, and to pat rather than rub it dry.
- Use a thin layer. The NHS patient guidance for adapalene is to apply thinly. More does not mean better, and a pea-sized amount is a common approach for the whole face.
- Avoid the delicate areas around the eyes, the corners of the nose and the mouth, where skin is thinner and more easily irritated.
- Moisturise. A simple, fragrance-free moisturiser helps with dryness, and many people find it easier to apply it before or after the retinol.
Sunscreen is not optional
Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to sunlight and more prone to sunburn. The NHS patient information on adapalene advises protecting the skin from sunlight, even on cloudy days, with high-factor sunscreen and clothing or a hat. This is the single most important habit to build around any retinoid.
For retinol, the common practice is to apply it in the evening and to use a daily sunscreen in the morning. A product that renews skin while you are unprotected by day is working against itself. If you are not prepared to wear sunscreen every day, you probably should not start a retinol.
What not to combine
It is easy to overload a routine. If your skin is reacting, the first step is usually to simplify. Using retinol alongside other active ingredients, such as exfoliating acids or other strong treatments, can increase irritation, particularly in the first weeks. It is sensible to introduce one active at a time, and to keep the rest of the routine simple: a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser and sunscreen.
Who should check first
Some people should ask a pharmacist or GP before starting a retinoid or a retinol product.
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding. NHS patient information on prescription retinoids states that topical retinoids are not suitable in pregnancy, because of a risk of birth defects. Advice about cosmetic retinol is less clear-cut, and many dermatologists suggest stopping retinoid products during pregnancy as a precaution. If you are pregnant, or trying to be, ask before using one.
- Sensitive skin conditions. If you have eczema, rosacea or very reactive skin, a retinol may worsen it. A pharmacist or GP can advise.
- Persistent acne. If you have acne that is painful, scarring or not improving, ask your GP. There are treatments, including prescription retinoids, that are more effective than anything sold as a cosmetic.
Setting expectations
Retinol is not a quick fix, and it is not magic. Used carefully, it is one of the better-studied topical ingredients, and many people use it for years. But the results are gradual, and they depend on the skin it is used on and the way it is used. The measure of success is not how dramatic the first week is. It is whether, after a few months, you have a routine that you can maintain and skin that is comfortable.
This article is general information, not medical advice. If you are pregnant, have a skin condition or are worried about your skin, speak to a pharmacist or your GP before starting a retinoid or retinol product.
Sources: NHS (Acne: treatment); Dorset County Hospital NHS Foundation Trust (Adapalene gels and cream: patient information)
