Clothes are made for an average body that does not exist, so nearly everyone who buys ready-made garments is wearing something that was cut for somebody else. For most people, the gap is small, and for some it is invisible. But for many, a modest adjustment is the difference between a garment that is fine and one that looks as if it was made for them. That adjustment is the work of a tailor or alterations specialist, and understanding what they can and cannot do makes visits quicker, cheaper and more successful.
The principle: take in, do not let out
The most useful rule is that it is easier to make a garment smaller than larger. Removing fabric is straightforward; adding it is limited by how much spare cloth was left in the seams when the garment was made. Many ready-made garments have a small seam allowance, a centimetre or two, and that is all a tailor has to work with. Some garments have very little, and some have none.
This has a practical consequence. If you are between sizes, the larger one is usually the better purchase, because a tailor can take it in. A garment that is too small is much harder to rescue.
The routine changes
Some alterations are done every day, and are rarely problematic.
Hems on trousers, skirts and dresses. Shortening is the simplest and most common change, and for most garments the cost is modest. The main limits are the design: a hem with a decorative feature, a deep pleat or a strong pattern at the bottom may be harder to adjust without changing the look. Trousers with a turn-up, or cuff, are altered differently from those with a plain hem.
Sleeve length. Shortening sleeves from the cuff is usually simple, as long as there is enough fabric to turn up and the cuff detailing, such as working buttons, is not disturbed. Shirts and unlined jackets are easier than tailored jackets with buttons at the cuff.
Waistbands. Trousers and skirts can generally be taken in or let out at the waist by a modest amount, depending on the seam allowance and the construction. Taking in is more reliable than letting out.
Taking in the sides. Shirts, dresses and the bodies of some jackets can be narrowed by adjusting side seams. A shirt that fits in the shoulders but billows at the waist is a classic example, and a quick change makes a noticeable difference.
Trouser legs. Tapering is common and generally straightforward, within limits, because a tailor can take in the inside seam. The line of the leg matters, and a good tailor will advise on how far to go before the proportion looks wrong.
Buttons, linings and fastenings. Replacing buttons, repairing a torn lining, fitting a new zip or adding a hook are all routine repairs, and extend the life of garments considerably.
The changes that are possible but more involved
Some alterations can be done, but they are more complex, take longer and cost more.
Jacket body. A tailored jacket can be taken in at the sides or the centre back, though the work interacts with the lining, the pockets and the overall balance. A skilled tailor can do it well; an inexperienced one can distort the shape.
Shortening a jacket. This is possible in some cases, but it affects the pockets, vents and proportions, and many tailors will advise against it.
Changing the leg width substantially. Narrowing a wide trouser significantly can change its character, and may leave the pockets or the pleats looking awkward.
Coat sleeves and linings. Coats have more layers than most garments, which makes sleeve alterations more involved. It is worth expecting a higher price and a longer wait.
Leather and suede. These materials can be altered by specialists, but they do not forgive mistakes: holes from earlier stitching stay visible. Look for someone with experience of the material.
What is usually not worth attempting
Some problems are better solved by choosing a different garment.
Shoulders. On tailored jackets and coats, shoulders are the hardest part to alter, because they involve the structure of the garment and the way the sleeve is set in. If the shoulders do not fit, a tailor may tell you the cost does not justify the result.
Collar and neck. A tailored jacket collar that does not sit properly is difficult to fix, as it depends on the construction of the whole upper back.
Major changes in size. A garment two sizes too big or small will not usually be saved by alterations, because the proportions will be off in ways that are hard to correct.
Garments with no spare fabric. Many inexpensive pieces are cut with minimal seam allowance, and some have fused or glued components that cannot be altered. If a garment looks as though it has been assembled with no margin, it probably has.
Heavily printed or patterned fabric. Alterations can disrupt the pattern at the seams, and the result may look unintentional.
A good tailor will tell you honestly when something is not worth the effort. That is a sign of competence, and you should be wary of anyone who says that everything is possible.
Getting the most from a first visit
A visit is more useful if you prepare for it.
- Wear the right things. Bring the shoes you will wear with the garment, and wear similar underlayers. A trouser hem is set by the shoe, and a shirt sits differently over a particular layer.
- Bring the garment, and others you love. A tailor can learn a lot from how your favourite pieces fit.
- Say what bothers you. “The sleeves feel long” or “it pulls across my back” is more helpful than a request for a specific change, because it lets the tailor decide the best method.
- Ask what is possible, and what it costs, before agreeing. Alterations vary widely in price, depending on the complexity and the garment.
- Move in the garment. Sit, reach, raise your arms and walk. A fit that looks good standing still but restricts movement is not a good fit.
- Be patient with a second fitting. Complex alterations often require a second visit to refine the result, and it is normal to ask for small adjustments.
Choosing a tailor
Word of mouth is the most reliable guide. Ask friends whose clothes fit well where they go, and look at examples of work if you can. A good alterations specialist will ask questions, take measurements carefully, pin the garment while you are wearing it and be honest about limits. Be cautious about very low prices on complex work, since skill takes time.
Is it worth it?
The economics of alterations are simple to describe and harder to judge. For a well-made garment in a good fabric, a modest alteration is excellent value, because it improves the fit of something that will last. For a very cheap garment, the cost of altering it may exceed its price, and it may not be worth doing.
A useful way to think about it is cost per wear. A coat you wear every winter for years, improved by a good fit, repays a tailor’s fee many times over. A piece you wear twice does not.
The short version
Take in rather than let out; expect hems, sleeves, waists and side seams to be routine; treat shoulders and collars as unchangeable; and ask the tailor what is realistic. Buying clothes that fit your largest and least adjustable measurement, then having the rest altered, is a sensible way to build a wardrobe. It is also a quiet pleasure: the first time you wear something that fits you properly, you notice it.
